ANCHORAGE - PART I, JUNE 30th to JULY 9th

"You can get anything you need in Anchorage." Shirley Wallace

We were looking forward to Anchorage. Linda would get a new Mac laptop at the Apple Store. And new pajamas at Macy's. Linda P. broke  the news a couple of weeks earlier - there is no Apple Store. Turns out there is a Nordstroms but no Macy's. Pajamas will wait.

We went directly to Elmendorf Air Force Base, knowing we needed to secure a campsite before the holiday weekend. We spent one night in overflow, without hook-ups but with full access to the amenities, and got a campsite the next day. It's a huge benefit to have hook-ups for $18 when the public campground nearby charges $25/night with none. We had no idea at the time that we would spend ten days there, nestled in the woods.

As usual, we headed directly for the Visitor's Center. It was a shock to discover that we had to pay for parking to visit it! After having to find street parking! The nearby streets were home to the most garish tourist traps imaginable. Not an auspicious start.


Inside was no more welcoming. The staff in the cute little sod-roofed cabin directs you to another building if you want maps or brochures. They are quite willing to direct you to the nearby tourist-oriented shops. A circular conversation ensued when we asked for natural food stores. They wanted us to shop at Fred Meyer which, to be fair, has a good selection of natural and organic foods. It took persistence to extract the names of independent markets. We would be so glad we did.

Before going any further, let us state unequivocally that the highlight of our Anchorage visit was seeing Merrily. On our way home from a long day, we got a phone call. Merrily, her partner Chris and the two children were in town! Their ship had stopped for the day. We thought for two minutes, called her back and told her we were on our way downtown. Chris and the kids had gone back to the ship for the kid's movie but we had coffee with Merrily.

We are anxious to see the famed flowers that Alaska's long days produce. We were too late for a tour of the gardens but who did we find there but Wayne and Elaine.

They had been to Earthquake Park but missed the entrance so we met them there and explored the exhibits and trail. The largest earthquake in North America occurred 80 miles from here, on Good Friday 1964. It measured 9.2 and lasted four minutes.

And, behold…the earth did quake and the rocks rent;"  

Matthew 27:51

A description of the first Good Friday

The gruesome dance of the earthquake finally stopped, leaving much of downtown Anchorage in ruins.  In four minutes of violent shaking, many buildings, roads, and waterfronts were destroyed.  On 4th Avenue, Anchorage's large commercial buildings and pavements dropped 15 feet.  Some multi-story structures were able to withstand the long duration of shaking, while others crumpled and crashed to the ground.

The weekend following the earthquake was punctuated by 55 strong aftershocks (some over 5.0 on the Richter scale) which kept Anchorage's resident on edge.  Despite massive property damage, only nine people perished in Anchorage.  The time of day, moderate winter temperatures, and lack of subsequent fires kept the loss of life low. From sign at the park

Elaine and Wayne, Earthquake Park

"Civilization exists by geological consent, subject to change without notice."   Will Durant

Winter Route?

Anchorage residents enjoy more than 130 miles of winter walkways that are plowed.

You told us that we would find good wine at Brown Jug! We were so happy to see this big display of wines. 

Happier yet to see many from our own neighborhood!

Also happy to see Silver Gulch, which we knew, and Alaskan Brewing, which we didn't (yet).

The Visitor's Center gets credit for finally directing us here. We thought we'd "died and gone to heaven". Fresh, beautiful produce! Fresh, beautiful fish! You were worried because we weren't eating fish every day. Now it was easy.

Linda bought reindeer chili several times. Carole suffered quietly.

Right across the street was the rest of what we needed to make our grocery shopping almost complete. 

Reciprocity with the De Young Museum in San Francisco got us into the Anchorage Museum free. Parking wasn't easy but this was worth the effort. 


The lighting is designed to protect the collection we assume, so our photos weren't very satisfying. You have to see it in person! The exhibits are arranged by region. There are also comfortable seating areas showing video interviews with native people. The text in small type is from the museum's signing.

Since 1988, The Arctic Studies Center has worked with Alaska Native and circumpolar communities on collaborative projects that include exhibitions, archaeological excavations, oral history, contemporary cultural studies and publications.  The Arctic Studies Center is a research and educational program of the Department of Anthropology, National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Institution.  

Community and Family:

"What do you say in Athabascan / when you leave each other?

What is the word / for goodbye?

A shade of feeling rippled / the wind-tanned skin,

Ah, nothing, she said, / watching the river flash,

She looked at me close, / We just say, Ttaa, That means

See you. / We never leave each other.

When does your mouth / say goodbye to your heart?"

            --Mary TallMountain (Koyukon Athabascan),

                   from "There Is No Word for Goodbye"

Tsimshian:

Gwish'na'ba'la

Button Robe:  A ceremonial button robe illustrating the story of three young people who were swallowed by a halibut.

Some of the exhibits were of contemporary art.

Erica Lord:

Blood Quantum (¼ + 1/16 = 5/16)

2007  Color photograph

Rasmuson Foundation Art Acquisition Initiative Fund

Erica Lord:

Enrollment Number 11-337-07463-04-01

2007  Color photograph

Kathleen Carlo-Kendall:

Storytellers from the Coast

2003 Yellow Cedar, brass and copper, gold leaf, pigment

Community and Family:

"In our tradition there is a saying.  'If a person is able

to do things, let him start,' and that is how it begins."

             --John Phillip, Sr. (Yup'ik)

Yup'ik Baskets in the very nice museum gift shop.

"Slim" at Weight Watchers needs to buy new clothes again.

"Food is an important part of a balanced diet."  Fran Liebowitz

Once again, our Lonely Planet guide book served us well. We liked this place and had breakfast there twice, is spite of considerable waits.


Afterwards, we walked down to the nearby park. On clear days, you can see the Alaska Range, including Denali, from Anchorage. It is possible to see six mountain ranges from Anchorage.

Linda's brother, Jim, had written to her, describing how beautiful Anchorage is, nestled between the mountains and  the water.

In the late 1700's England's Capatain James Cook sailed almost 40 miles up an Alaskan River, only to have to 'Turn Again' when he reached a long mountain flanked bay.  That body of water is now known as "Turnagain Arm" and runs along the scenic Seward Highway.

Who knows why we decide to do anything? Maybe we did this because we had coupons. Maybe because the base had discount tickets. The last ski lift we rode (in summer) Linda absolutely hated. She's afraid of heights! But it's a beautiful drive down to Girdwood and The Bakery wasn't a bad place to lunch. The lift was very pleasant and we shared the ride with three couples from Silver Spring, Maryland - where Linda grew up. 

Alyeska Resort

The tram

The FAMCAMP is behind the VA Hospital. Leaving our campsite one morning, this moose and her calf were across the street. Carole swears she's saying to it "Okay, Junior, you saw the doctor and got your booster shots. Now we have to cross this road. It's dangerous, so stay close to me".

Moose, urban and country, are a problem in Alaska and many get killed on the roads.